What Your Hair Stylist Doesn't Want You to Know About Home Hair Coloring

What Your Hair Stylist Doesn't Want You to Know About Home Hair Coloring

**This post contains some affiliate links and I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links. SO please get to clicking :)** 

For years we've been told not to color our hair at home.  We've been told that home hair coloring never gives you the same results as the salon.  We've been told it is always best to go to the salon before you butcher your hair with store bought hair color.  All of what we've been told is FALSE.  The biggest difference between coloring at home or going to the salon is...YOU (and knowing what you are doing).

One of my besties is a licensed cosmetologist and she has taught me a lot about hair care and dyeing your hair at home.  Rest assured ladies, you CAN get salon quality results at home.  You just have to know what you are doing!

1) Identify your natural your hair color.  

People with warmer base tones can take on more colors than those with cooler hues.  Start by "identifying the level of darkness  "level" or darkness of the hair. Whether you're talking about your natural color or choosing a new color, the first step is to understand and choose how dark the hair is. Standard hair color levels are defined on a scale of 1 to 10 with level 1 being the darkest, blackest color and level 10 being a very light blond color. Here are the 10 standard hair color levels:

Level 1: Black
Level 2: Darkest (almost black) Brown
Level 3: Very Dark Brown
Level 4: Dark Brown
Level 5: Brown
Level 6: Light Brown
Level 7: Dark Blond
Level 8: Medium Blond
Level 9: Blond
Level 10: Light Blond

The lightest platinum blond colors are often referred to as level 11, 12, or even 13. Hair Color Tone

After establishing the level of one's natural or desired hair color, next the tone of hair color is defined. Hair color tones can be put into three standard categories: warm, cool, or neutral. When hair stylists discuss color, or if you are choosing a color from a swatch book, the tones are often indicated with a letter. Here are standard examples of color tones:

N: Neutral. Neither warm, nor cool.

Cool Tones
A: Ash
B: Beige
B: Blue
G: Green V: Violet

Warm Tones
C: Copper
G: Gold
O: Orange
R: Red
W: Warm
RB: Brown/Red
RO: Red/Orange

Tones are often be combined in hair color formulas to create the perfect shade. For example, an auburn color is achieved by combining neutral or warm tones with red tones. Red hair color can be made cool by adding violet tones to the color formula. Sometimes hair colorists achieve the right color combination by mixing different color tones together, but the hair color companies typically have pre-created colors that feature mixed tones, as well.

Combining Level and Tone
When defining a hair color, the level and tone are combined into a letter/number combination. For example: a warm brown color would be defined as a "5W". The number indicates the hair color level (brown), and the letter indicates that the tone is warm. Here are a few other examples of hair color defined by the level and tone:

8A: Medium Ash Blond
4RV: Dark Red/Violet
6C: Light Copper Brown
5N: Neutral Brown
9W: Light Warm Blond

Determining a hair color level is pretty simple once you get the hang of it. Your opinion may be a level off from the next person's opinion, but generally speaking, the level is pretty obvious. However, hair color tone is not as easily defined by the eye. What one person my see as "red" the next person may describe as "copper". This is where pictures and swatches come in very handy to be sure that everyone is speaking the same language." (Aarhus, 2014)

2) Know Your "Porosity: How your hair absorbs and holds moisture will determine how color deposits in your hair. If you have low porosity, it can be more difficult to process dye because the hair shaft is not as receptive to foreign chemicals. This means if you are using a box kit, you may not get the color result as you see it on the packaging. If you have high porosity, you have to be careful not to over-process the hair as chemicals can process almost twice as fast. But, you can expect the color to fade slower. Also note, permanent dye will increase your hair’s porosity since it has to penetrate the cortex, making it harder for the hair to retain moisture in the future (which is why dryness can become an issue)." (Mo Knows Hair, 2013)

3) Know Your "Texture: Coarse strands generally take more time to absorb color than fine width strands. This means the processing time may vary from the instructions given in box kits. How much, you ask? Well…as always, it depends! (Not sure what hair texture you have? Learn more about texture typing.)" (Mo Knows Hair, 2013)

4) Try a Subtle Change First.

Don't go immediately from black to blonde, try a subtle change at first to get the hang of coloring at home.  For instance try going from a deep brunette to a spicy cinnamon.  The slight change in hair color will add some oomph to your look, and it will minimize any noobie mistakes!

5) Try Before You Buy! 

If you are going for a more dramatic change, 3 shades lighter or darker than your normal hair color, try on a wig!  It is a painless way to see what your results will be and if your new haircolor is right for your skin tone.

6) Buy more hair color than you need.  

People with long and thick locks may use up to three boxes of hair color, and you never want to only half way through your hair and run out of hair color!

7) Buy a shade lighter than what you want. 

"Take it from Rihanna's colorist Ursula Stephens, who knows a thing or two about fine-tuning tresses: Hair dye always comes out darker than the image on the box. "Buy one or two shades lighter than your desired color," she advises. "It is easier to amp up a color's intensity than it is to tone it down."  (InStyle, 2011)

8) Skip the shower. 

"The scalp's natural oils work as a buffer to prevent irritation," says colorist James Corbett of the James Corbett Studio in New York City. Translation? Dirty hair is ideal for dyeing. "It's also much easier to section second day hair, which ensures even color distribution." He suggests skipping the shampoo a day before you plan to color. (InStyle, 2011)

9) Prepare for the damage. 

Hair always gets a little damaged when applying color, even if you're going back to your natural hue. Both permanent and semi-permanent dyes contain hydrogen peroxide, which chemically changes the color of the hair pigment. Celebrity colorist Tracey Cunningham recommends using the Redken Real Control Intense Renewal Mask at least once a week to moisturize dry hair and restore shine. The mask aids in repairing damaged hair and fortifying strands so they resist further breakage. (InStyle, 2011)

10) Buy Madison Reed

Lastly, if you are going to color at home go with Madison Reed. From the Madison Reed website,

"We believe your hair should be as radiant as you are—because feeling beautiful inside and out is your best accessory.

Our new at-home hair color and hair care products make you feel like you've just walked out of a salon every day. Madison Reed adds brilliance to your hair and turns the ordinary into the extraordinary, no matter the occasion.

NEXT GENERATION HAIR COLOR

Handcrafted in Italy, our special multi-tone formula comes in 27 natural and dynamic shades for sophisticated salon-quality color with unparalleled depth and shine. Whether you're refreshing your roots or trying on a new color, our professional-grade formula provides complete coverage, especially for those tough grays.

HEALTHIER FOR YOU & YOUR HAIR

Our long-lasting hair color is packed with rich nutrients like keratin, argan oil and ginseng root extract. Your hair will feel stronger, shinier and better than before you colored.

Our formula is free of ammonia and resorcinol, taking the harsh out of hair color. And it smells nice too!

FINDING YOUR COLOR IS EASY

Our online tools help you pick your best color. Using another color brand? Our Color Translator will find the Madison Reed match for you. Need help choosing a color? Our Color Advisor will take you through a few short questions to find your perfect color.

EXPERT GUIDANCE FOR BRILLIANT RESULTS

Talk or chat with the professional stylists on our Color Crew. They have a wealth of hair knowledge and can help you choose your best color. You can even send them your picture—or a picture you like—and they'll walk you through the rest, just like in the salon. Send us an email or give us a call at 1.888.550.9586.

YOU CAN DO THIS

We go beyond the easy-to-understand instructions on our box. With our in-depth online visual instructions and step-by-step videos you'll see exactly how easy it is to apply your color perfectly every time. You can also call our Color Crew and they can walk you through it.

EASY TO GET. EASY TO USE.

You have enough going on. Let us take care of your hair color. Just set up auto-delivery and we'll make sure you have hair color when and where you need it.

Have a hair emergency? Give us a call and we'll expedite delivery—because there's no reason you shouldn't feel beautiful whenever you want.

PACKAGED TO DELIGHT YOU

We want you to have a wonderful coloring experience. So we started with a box that has everything you need.

• Easy instructions on how to use our color
• Barrier cream to keep the skin around your hairline clean
• 2 pairs of well-fitting gloves, one to apply color and another to rinse
• Radiant Cream Color and Conditioning Color Activator to apply to your hair
• Hair cap to wear while you're waiting for your color to set
• Cleansing wipes to clean up any stray color
• Nourishing, Color Enhancing Shampoo and Conditioner that you can use for several washes

There's also a special gift inside!

Madison Reed is the best in home hair coloring.  With numerous shades to choose from, along with top quality products, that are easy to use, as well as having access to your own hair color experts, you can expect beautiful results every time!  Visit Madison Reed to get your new hair color here https://www.madison-reed.com

As always Happy Shopping!

PS You can connect with me on:

Instagram: @IHEARTRetailTherapy

Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/IHEARTRetailTherapy

Twitter: @HEARTRetail

Pinterest: RetailTherapy1

Google+: +I HEART Retail Therapy

References

Aarhus, K. (2014). Hair Color 101 How to Speak and Understand Hair Color Level & Tone. Retrieved from About.com: http://womenshair.about.com/od/haircolor/a/Hair-Color-101.htm

InStyle. (2011). 11 Things to Know Before Dyeing Your Own Hair. Retrieved from InStyle: http://www.instyle.com/instyle/package/general/photos/0,,20475182_20476161_20927796,00.html

Mo Knows Hair. (2013). To Dye Or Not To Dye? Retrieved from Mo Knows Hair: http://moknowshair.com/hairdyebasics/

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Product Review: J.F Lazartigue

Product Review: J.F Lazartigue

Recently, I had the pleasure of reviewing J.F Lazartigue Dry and Thick Hair Masque and Shampoo. If you are unfamiliar, "Jean-Francois Lazartigue is one of the most renowned hair care specialists in France." (Lazartigue, n.d)  Since the opening of his first salon in 1963, he has dedicated himself to offering the finest hair products and treatments, becoming a highly sought after hair care specialists in France. The French have been holding out on us!

The Dry and Thick line is enriched with shea butter to restore health and moisture to the hair.  I couldn't wait to try it because my hair has been in terrible shape!  Seemingly, after the birth of my daughter no matter what I try my hair is dry, brittle and damaged.  Since my hair is so curly it craves moisture and everything else I have been using has not restored its former luster.

For my review I started with the Hair Masque.  The Hair Masque almosts looks like pure whipped shea butter; it's thick and creamy without being too greasy. I applied the Masque and went about my daily routine (it must be left on for at least 2 hours). 

After the 2 hours was up, I went to shampoo.  Now to be honest, I was worried about this step.  There are quite a few products on the market that moisturize first then shampoo.  My only problem with that is most shampoos immediately strip the moisture, so no matter how much you moisturize initially the shampoo immediately strips it away.  With the final step being shampoo, I wasn't too convinced this was going to work for me.

However, once I lathered, all of my fears were dissuaded.  The shampoo managed to clean my scalp and hair nicely without stripping excess moisture.  It was wonderful.  I did not take any after pictures because I let my hair air dry; but without any additional product my curls were nicely defined and not frizzy! (Normally that takes all types of styling aids to accomplish.)  My hair felt soft and silky, a feel it hasn't had in a long time!  After the treatment, my curls were defined, my hair felt moisturized and healthy!

J.F Lazartigue's Dry and Thick hair line is phenomenal!  For more information (and where to purchase!) make sure you like J.F Lazartigue's Facebook page here https://www.facebook.com/jflazartigueUSA and you can visit the J.F Lazartigue site at http://www.jflazartigue.com

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At the Dominican Salon, a Tangled History All Comes Out in the Wash, and Set

I had to post this article:

At the Dominican Salon, a Tangled History All Comes Out in the Wash, and Set

By Teresa Wiltz

Washington Post Staff Writer
Saturday, July 14, 2007 

The women are specialists in the subduing of spirited hair -- wizards of blow-dryers and curling irons, of brightly colored rollers and creamy Caribbean unguents, of bobby pins and potent frizz fighters. Kinks and coils are not welcome. Curls are to be quashed into submission, lassoed around restraining devices, baked under a bonnet and then brushed and brushed until they concede defeat.

At the Sashelvis Hair Salon & Spa in downtown Silver Spring, the only good curl is a curl that knows its place: prone.

There are those who like it like that, notwithstanding the fraught nature of race and hair. And because of this, women queue up by the dozens at the salon, waiting to partake of this particular brand of communion: the Dominican blow-out, a multi-layered process that results, in the words of a '70s hair commercial, in bouncin' and behavin' hair. "Dominican" is a key component of this particular species of blow-out, a branding that sends its devotees scurrying to find a salon in Phoenix or Dallas or London, posting frantic missives on Web sites: "Bad hair day . . . Desperately looking for a Dominican salon in downtown Toronto."

Which is why, at 8 a.m. on a Saturday, 18 women line up on Wayne Avenue outside Sashelvis, Starbucks lattes in hand. Once inside, all is quiet, save for the hush of hair dryers, the soft murmur of Spanish, the trickle of running water. Then a brusque refrain, one that will be heard again throughout the 11-hour day, punctures the peace: "Next!"

"We work all day long," says Ana Marmolejos, who co-owns Sashelvis with her sister, Carmen. "And at Easter time? Oh. My. God. We've got people lined up, waiting for dryers. Some days, you get those big bushes of hair, no chemicals. We feel like running away."

On this day, Marmolejos and her 15 stylists will coif the tresses of 116 women and girls. (On a really busy day, she says, they'll see as many as 160.) The overwhelming majority of those women will be African American -- 98 percent of their clientele -- with a handful of Dominicanas, West Africans, Jamaicans, Central Americans and the stray white girl tossed into the mix.

The popularity of the Dominican salon -- even in Washington, which has only a microscopic population hailing from the Dominican Republic -- embodies a perfect storm of racial aesthetics, cultural conditioning and a strong hand with a blow-dryer. (In downtown Silver Spring, there are six Dominican hair salons, including one owned by another of Marmolejos's sisters and one that she rents out to another hairstylist. (There are others scattered around the region.) Burbling under the surface is a shared legacy of slavery and miscegenation, of ancestors who survived the Middle Passage, ending up in different ports of call all across the Americas. Dominicans, the descendants of Africans, Europeans, Taino Indians and a few other strains thrown in for good measure, are famous for knowing their way around highly textured hair, renowned for, as Latina.com declares, "the best damn blow-outs in the country." Because of this, Ana and Carmen Marmolejos boast on their business cards, "YES, WE ARE DOMINICANS!"

That's what folks come for.

"Whenever I come here, my hair looks so light and shiny," says Danielle Balfour, 29, a sweet-faced elementary school teacher from Charlottesville, as she stands in line with sopping-wet hair, waiting to have it set on rollers. Every month, she says, she makes her pilgrimage to Sashelvis.

"I can't do [what they do]," Balfour says. "Other salons can't do it. So I stick to here. Everyone who comes here tries to figure out 'What's the mystery of what they do here?' "

Perhaps it's not that big of a mystery. In the Dominican Republic, where it is estimated that 90 percent of the population has at least some African ancestry, straight hair is revered as a symbol of beauty. Over the years, Dominicanas developed techniques to manage curly hair in a tropical climate, mastering the art of the roller set and concocting conditioners in the kitchen.

"It's the technique," observes New York-based beauty editor Tia Williams, who's chronicled her love for the Dominican blow-out in her blog, "Shake Your Beauty."

"It's all in the wrist, some kind of wrist action they have combined with the roller set. No matter how well you do roller sets at home, they do it better. The blow-out that you get is smoother and shinier than you can get at any other salons."

Unlike those pricey retreats where you're served cappuccino and white wine, Sashelvis is strictly no-frills: a handful of seats in the front, a few pictures of glammed-out hair models on the walls, a few religious portraits along with the American flag stuck in a glass vase, impersonating a flower.

Folks come here because it's quick. (Well, relatively, about two hours, start to finish.) It's cheap. (Again, relatively. Cheap for D.C., with prices starting at $35; it's cheaper in New York, the epicenter of the Dominican American beauty parlor.) It's convenient. (Open seven days a week, no appointment necessary.)

It works something like this: You come in, asking for a "wash 'n' set." The receptionist gives your hair the once-over. If your hair is long, you pay $10 more. If your hair is naturally curly or kinky and untouched by chemical straighteners or relaxers, you pay $10 more.

After the initial assessment, you're sent back to the shampoo room, where you get scrubbed down with products hailing from the D.R. and Europe and then slathered with ultrahydrating conditioners. Then it's under a long, conical dryer for 10 minutes while the conditioner does its work. After a quick rinse, you're plopped down in the stylist's chair, where she painstakingly sets your soaking locks on big plastic rollers. Then it's back under the hairdryer for an ear-scorching 50 minutes. Then back to the stylist's chair, where she takes out the curlers and, armed with a blow-dryer and a brush, steamrolls out any remaining bumps and kinks from the hair. Then, you're finished off with a curling iron, ensuring that any remaining hint of frizz is obliterated.

(Frizz is the enemy here. On the way out the door, a receptionist proffers a shower cap to don as you cross the street. It's raining, she points out. Rain equals frizz.)

By the time the first batch of clients are going through the final stages of their transformation, a haze hovers over the salon, the byproduct of multiple blow-dryers going at full blast at the same time. Over the speakers, Dominican balladeer Bonny Cepeda croons about lost love, begging and begging for what once was and what now isn't. Some of the stylists sing along sotto voce, egged on by Marmolejos's 13-year-old daughter, Sasha.

"¡Dale, dale! " she teases, tossing her mane of perfectly straightened hair. "¡Canta!"

Go on! Sing!

* * *

Back home in Santo Domingo, there's a beauty shop on every corner. Office workers are expected to adhere to a strict dress code, Marmolejos says -- carefully coiffed hair, no ponytails, or buns -- and so women haunt salons, popping in every few days for a touch-up, trying to beat the heat and humidity.

"Every Dominican girl knows how to roller-set their hair," says Angelina "Gigi" Alcantara, the salon's 24-year-old receptionist/bookkeeper. "It has to be real straight."

Sometimes, of course, a hairstyle is just a hairstyle. But some see this obsession with straightening hair as a desire to erase all traces of any connection to the Mother Land. In his upcoming novel, "The Brief, Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao," Dominican American novelist Junot Diaz writes about the color complexes of Dominicans at home and abroad, how straight hair is a status symbol, something to indicate that you are more Taino or European than African, and therefore somehow better.

Observes Bernadette Sanchez, a Dominican American psychologist in Chicago: "Based on my own experience with my family and with other Dominicans, there is a complex about having black ancestry. There are many Dominicans to me who are clearly black but will not identify as black. A lot of shame in the Dominican culture about having black heritage." And historically, Sanchez says, that attitude translates into prejudice against black Americans.

Much like African Americans, the stylists here, all Dominicanas, are an assortment of colors and hair textures, from fair-skinned and kinky-haired to deep brown with silky, straight tresses. But they seem to like it best serving up hairstyles with a healthy helping of lye.

"A lot of stylists don't want to deal with, let's say, African hair," Marmolejos says. "They're afraid of it. But we are black. We're all mixed, but how can I consider myself white?"

"You have this perception that women from the islands think they're better," says Carol Walls, a 46-year-old author and poet who lives in Southeast. "But they're women just like us. That was a different perspective, seeing other women from different cultures going through the same stuff."

By 5 p.m., the last of the clients trickle in. In one chair, a Cameroonian woman, dressed in traditional dress, chats on her cellphone, gossiping and laughing in her native language. Fewer clients emerge from the shampoo room. One by one the stylists with wet hair begin to take their places in chairs, towels draped around their necks. Now it's their turn.

Marmolejos finishes her last batch of customers, with her own hair half-wet and blow-dried straight. "I never have time to do my hair," she says. Stealing a minute, she plops down into her own chair, as one of the stylists finishes her up.

By 7, the last of the clients have gone and the workers get down to the final business of the day: Taking care of each other, wielding blow-dryers and scissors, curling irons and bobby pins, winding hair round rollers, then baking it until it does their bidding.

SOURCE: http://www.washingtonpost.com/

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Behind the Scenes of NOVA Fashion Week

Behind the Scenes of NOVA Fashion Week

 

Luxe Lifestyle presents: BEHIND THE SCENES OF NOVA FASHION WEEK 

FRIDAY May 4th at 6pm at the Artisphere

 

Have you ever wanted to know what really goes on behind the scenes at a fashion show? Ever wondered how models are made up and then ready to walk the runway in just a matter of seconds? Well, wonder no more! 

Luxe Lifestyle presents THE fashion event of the season,  “BEHIND THE SCENES OF NOVA FASHION WEEK”  Join us on Friday May 4th, 2012 at 6.00pm at The Artisphere in Arlington and see NOVA Fashion Week (held in October 2012) come to life right before your eyes and then grab a drink and watch the runway show to end the night! From styling the models, to hair and makeup, clothing and even laying down the runway for the fashion show,
YOU get to experience it all!

Who's going with me?! For tickets and more info click here

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Naturally Beautiful Hair-Tips from Elite Pro

You already know that I'm not really one for rules, but really, if I have to think about five things that have transformed my hair in the past year, I can clearly say that they are: 1. Find a professional who can care for your hair. As I said earlier, for me, the most important thing about going to the hair salon is knowing that they're taking care of my hair and that, above all, my hair's health is the most important thing. As you can imagine, many stylists have cut my hair, and most of the time they put the beauty of the cut above what is really best for your hair. That's why I'm so loyal to my salon, because I know that they are going to make sure my hair appears healthier each time, and not just that it has a beautiful color or cut. So this is the first rule: talk with your stylist and make sure you understand what he or she recommends. Your stylist will teach you how to take care of your hair and strengthen it.

2. Use high-quality products.

At my salon they use Joico products, so ever since I've been going there I've been using their product line to take care of my hair. The difference between this brand and others is that your hair can recover from damage in a short period of time. It isn't cheap, but the price is similar to those of other salon brands that I used to use. Here's the best thing of all. Before, when nothing seemed to work, I never stopped trying new products and over time I spent more and more money. Now I use just one shampoo, one hair mask, one conditioner, and one hair protector that strengthens my hair.

3. Protect your hair.

Protect your hair - not only from the obvious styling tools, like curling irons and hairdryers, but also from excessive brushing, vigorous rubbing with a towel, bands that pull your hair too tightly, hairstyles that are too rigid, and products that are too aggressive. Now I know that my hair is as fragile as the skin on my face, so when I brush my hair I'm very careful not to break it. Long ago, I switched to using a natural-bristle brush and, although it takes longer to detangle my hair, it breaks a lot less, so it's worth the effort.

4. Follow a beauty ritual.

Just as you do with your face, follow a beauty ritual for your hair. Since I have dry hair, I wash my hair two or three times each week, and on those days I use a lot of products to care for my hair: I give myself a gentle massage as I apply the shampoo (as is done in hair salons). I put on a hair mask and let it sit for 20 minutes, and I detangle my hair very gently. The rest of the time, if I need to detangle my hair, I do it with a soft brush, without pulling.

5. Strengthen your natural hair.

Finally, make sure that you strengthen your hair. I've spent years straightening my hair each day, but my hair is actually curly. Now, although sometimes I straighten it, most of the time I leave it curly, adding a few touches with a flat iron to "stylize" the part in front, and then I'm ready. And it takes less than half the time needed to straighten my hair. This is another important point: it's time to opt for a haircut that really suits your hair type and not just what's in fashion or what your stylist likes.

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