Women of Color: How NOT to Apply Makeup

 Women of Color: How NOT to Apply Makeup

Oh no,no, NO!  Lil' Kim made an appearance on BET's RIP the Runway...and well, this is what happened.

I, really, do not want to pick on Kim, she obviously is dealing with some "things" and...I grew up listening to Kim (more so, Biggie), and I wish her the best and hope she finds peace and happiness....I really, really do.

However, women of color, this is a great example of what NOT to do when applying makeup. (or wigs or clothes for that matter, but let's just roll with it)

First topic is foundation.  Foundation can either do wonders or completely ruin you.  It's a delicate line we can cross either into the dark side (or too light side: see left) or into the wonderful side where your skin looks smooth, even toned and radiant.

I know how it is!  It is difficult to find the right foundation and not to mention, having to apply it!  I have the make up blog and I am just perfecting my technique.  I kid you not! 

My suggestions are:

• if you are one of the fortunate and blessed people with nice smooth skin with an even tone go for a light foundation even a tinted moisturizer.  The purpose of foundation is to make your skin look smooth and supple, and if your skin is already flawless, "don't fix it if it ain't broken".  Just use a little foundation to keep oiliness at bay or add a bit of moisture for those with dry skin.
• if you find a foundation that is perfect for your skin, stock up!!!!  My high end bourgeois Retail Addicts will gasp at this but my favorite foundation is, CG (CoverGirl) TruBlend Microminerals in Classic Tan 460.  (I hear the snickers) But out of every foundation I've tried it matches my skin tone perfectly; I can build up my coverage (light to full coverage) and it doesn't aggravate my oily skin, while keeping the "shine-ees" away.  It's awesome!  However, those darn CoverGirl people discontinued it!  Thanks a lot Cover Girl!  I did try the NatureLuxe Silk Foundation in the CG suggested Nutmeg 360 but it was too light!  So, every time I see a seller on Amazon or Ebay with my foundation, I buy them out!
• Tinted moisturizers are awesome!  If you have oily skin, be sure to find a light moisturizer preferably oil free.
• If you use a liquid foundation, get the right tools to apply! Yes you can do it with your fingers (some pros do-but remember they are professionals!) but the application sponges really make sure the liquid is evenly spread all over your face.  The ring around your hair line and jaw is NOT cute.  I promise you, it's not!

Now the hard part: finding the right shade for our skin tones.  I will admit finding the right foundation can be a costly and hair pulling adventure.  Even though most of the world is Black and Brown (it' true, it's true!)  Most cosmetic companies seemingly haven't noticed.  Even cosmetic companies geared towards women of color sometimes don't offer your perfect match!  So do your homework ladies.

First, wash your face and pat dry.  Look in a mirror with a lot of natural light (or really good lighting). Do you have dark spots, or changes in skin tone? Determine if your undertone is red, yellow, or blue.  Do you have scarring, hyperpigmentation, or freckles you need to cover?  Also pay attention to your neck!  Is it lighter or darker than your face? **VERY IMPORTANT**  All of these questions will help you determine the amount of coverage you need and what color you should look for.  Finally figure out what kind of foundation finish you prefer.  Would you like a dewy, matte  or moist finish?  Do you prefer minerals, compact or liquid?

Now you are armed and ready to go somewhere you can find help!  Of course MAC, most cosmetic counters in major department stores, Sephora and Ulta offer help.  (If you're looking for a makeover -Ulta only does bare mineral make up makeovers and Sephora charges $50)  If you are looking for foundation on a budget CVS also has a cosmetic person.  The only thing is, sometimes it's hit or miss, on how knowledgeable the associate is. The first time I received help, the cosmetic girl (for lack of a better term) was awesome.  She was knowledgeable and extremely helpful.  The second time I tried, the cosmetic girls make up was horrible and she obviously had no idea what she was talking about.  Just a fair warning.

While shopping, keep the basic rules in mind.

• Foundation for women of color should have more pigment than ones made for Caucasian skin.
• If your skin has a lot of yellow try foundations in the golden range
• If your skin is medium to deep, look for foundation in the red-orange-brown range.  Remember if you have dark spots, foundations in the red/orange range help cancel out the blue in the dark spots and blemishes.  If your skin falls in the darkest range of the spectrum you will want a foundation with a slight blue undertone.
• Test on various parts of your face, especially if you have an uneven skin tone.  Test around the jawline and neck (especially if your face is lighter or darker than your neck)
• If you need heavy coverage, stick foundations do wonders to even discolorations and hide blemishes, dark spots and freckles.
• Also consider buying a concealer and pressed or loose powders to ensure they match
• Powders should match your foundation as closely as possible.  Avoid powders with mica or talc (especially if your skin is dark) because they accentuate ashy shadows (see Lil Kim above)
• Be wary of foundations that offer "luminosity".  At times they make darker skin look gray and ashy.

Hopefully you can find your shade in a ready blended formula.  If not first try  a company that does custom foundation.  If your budget can afford it, it may be one of the best cosmetic buys you've ever made.  If you can't afford it try blending your own formula.

• Find a foundation that is closest to your shade but not perfect.  Get one shade lighter and one shade darker as well.
• Try mixing 2 parts lighter to 1 part darker, or 2 parts darker to 1 part darkest, and so on and so on until you get the right shade.  Test your shades preferably with a lot of natural light or really good lighting!

Lastly, you should all know not to do whatever Kim did to her eyebrows.  Your eyebrows should enhance your face and eyes!  Do you really need tips?

Blush...blush is an awesome thing if you master the techniques.  You can use it to highlight cheekbones, contour for non existent cheek bones and add the sexy flush of color-if you know how to do it right!  Again, I am embarrassed to admit-I have the make up the blog and my blush skills are mediocre at best.  I personally don't try any color too dark and I avoid the Raggedy Ann circle technique at all costs.  I do a light brush stroke from my apple of my cheek along my cheek bone.  I prefer my blush light and to look like I have indeed blushed or have a slight sun tan on my cheeks.  That's just me!  If you have any suggestions, feel free to email me or add them to the comments.

I do not know what to say about Kims' eyelashes or eyeliner but I will say this, I hate cheap fake eyelashes!  It disturbs me when I see women with a row of bat wings on their eyes!  I hate it!  It looks like if they blinked any harder they would just fly away on those things! 

However I don't mind tasteful eyelashes or crazy eyelashes on the runway (that's where crazy eyelashes should stay ladies!)  So keep your eyelashes tasteful and make sure you know how to apply them!

Lastly, let's pray, meditate, send loving energy to Lil' Kim (and a better stylist and makeup artists)...She needs it!